GREENWASHING DILEMMA: HOW TO CHECK THE SUSTAINABILITY CREDENTIALS OF FASHION BRANDS

By: Prachi Khatri

From supply chain to the non-stop changing trends that brands have to keep up with, fashion is a complicated industry. Adding to these complexities are expectations to be ‘sustainable’. Today’s consumers are attracted to brands that are earth conscious due to environmental impact and companies are responding in different ways from using recycled materials for packaging to sourcing ‘vegan’ materials. All these efforts have become confusing and no doubt raise questions of authenticity.

Credit: Cherie Birkner / @cheriebirkner

Environmental concerns are real - and serious. The average temperature has increased by 1.2 degrees Celsius over the past 10 years from 2014 to 2023. Hence the demand for products that are safe for the planet. However, many brands out there are only using sustainability as a marketing ploy. Greenwashing is when companies make false claims about their environmental efforts to attract customers into buying products. As environmental consciousness increases amongst consumers, it is important to identify brands that are genuinely eco-friendly and those simply riding the ‘green wave’.

As the name suggests, green means better for the environment and washing is derived from the idea of concealing something. It can be a tricky situation for customers to identify the companies telling green lies and highlighting their environmental efforts more than what they are doing.

Transparency is the key to navigating greenwashing. When identifying the companies that follow eco-friendly practices with those that only paint a picture with single green efforts, customers must seek brands that are transparent and relevant in their marketing efforts of sustainability.

Data backed with research and numbers is the most reliable source for information. A company may use terms like "sustainable" or “ethical” to describe its goods without providing hard data to support those assertions. Instead, it might draw attention to a single green endeavor, like a product line that uses recycled polyester, while neglecting more significant and harmful supply chain activities. Confusing results often make customers uncertain about which company is prioritizing environmental first. 

As per the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, the fashion industry generates more than 92 million tonnes of garbage every year. Waste from the fashion industry is also the world’s biggest pollutant, with almost 10% of global emissions. Customers are growing more conscious of the effects that their clothes have on the planet. Brands need to back up their sustainable claim with measurable action.

Use of misleading certifications, hidden trade-offs, using environmental imagery and branding, selective disclosure, and overstating benefits are some of the examples of how grand tricks attract consumers towards their products. There are few simple ways to check a company’s sustainability credentials.

Third-party certificates: Looks for Fair Trade, Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), or B Corp GOTS-certified brands that use organic fibers and comply with strict environmental criteria.

Material sourcing: Not all environmental products are sourced equally. E.g., recycled polyester requires a lot of energy to produce. Seek out organic cotton, hemp, and Tencel fabrics.

Supply chain transparency: Pay attention to brands that provide detailed information on their labor standards and factory information.

Life Cycle Assessments (LCA): Brands conduct LCA evaluations from raw material to disposal to help understand the carbon footprints of their products. An ethical and transparent brand always shows the LCA data of its products on their website.

To identify sustainable labels from those jumping on the bandwagon brands, such as Good On You, Fashion Revolution's Transparency Index, Eco-label Directories, etc., rate brands in different categories from ‘we avoid’ to great, ranking them from supply chain to product sourcing, making it easy for consumers.

As consumers, we hold the power to shape the future of sustainable fashion. We can genuinely make a difference to our environment by arming ourselves with the right knowledge and tools.

Cover Image: Harper Sunday / @harpersunday