EMBRACING DIVERSITY: TAILORING SKINCARE FOR NUMEROUS SKIN COLOURS, TONES AND ETHNICITIES

By: Kritika Kukreja

Within any given community, one can observe a diverse array of hues, shades, and tones, representing a spectrum of colours, from the deepest ebony to the fairest ivory, and every shade in between. Each hue brings its own set of characteristics and challenges, requiring tailored approaches to achieve optimal health and radiance.

Since skin colour is the most noticeable ethnic distinction, it is essential to understand that the characteristics of the skin, including its type, colour, and tone, are primarily determined by genetic factors and the presence of melanin pigment. This pigment varies in quantity and type, influencing the appearance and characteristics of skin. Individuals with darker skin tones often have more melanin, which provides natural protection against the sun but may also make them more prone to hyperpigmentation and scarring. On the other hand, those with lighter skin tones may be more susceptible to sun damage and premature ageing.

Credit: Curology @curology

However, there are other significant factors to regard when engaging in skincare. Different ethnic backgrounds may also display diverse skin textures, such as oily, dry, or sensitive. Although recognizing the skin tone is crucial for choosing the appropriate skincare products, identifying skin's distinct texture aids in selecting the optimal skincare regimen. 

Do environmental differences have a role to play?

Certain skin conditions are associated with specific geographic regions, regardless of sun exposure. Regions with elevated humidity levels, for instance, have been associated with increased prevalence of severe psoriasis, eczema, and acne among populations. A study conducted in 2010 revealed that African Americans exhibited a higher prevalence of acne lesions, accounting for 65% of cases, yet only 5.9% displayed acne scarring. In contrast, Hispanics showed a similar number of lesions, but a significantly higher percentage, 21.8%, exhibited scars.

The structural composition of skin also differs across different ethnic groups. Variations in thickness and density influence factors like longevity, resilience, and elasticity. The thinner the skin, the more susceptible it becomes to deterioration as time passes. This leads to the loosening of facial skin, causing wrinkles to gather around the eyes, forehead, and mouth. 

For instance, Caucasian skin tends to be thinner, leading to a quicker loss of elasticity and collagen fibres as individuals age. Consequently, wrinkles and fine lines may appear earlier. Conversely, individuals with darker skin tones typically possess a more robust collagen matrix and denser skin cell structure, resulting in delayed onset of wrinkles and fine lines.

Furthermore, there are variations in the epidermal structure among ethnicities. African and Latin individuals typically have a more compact arrangement, which helps retain moisture and reduces water loss from the skin. On the other hand, White and Asian individuals experience greater trans-epidermal water loss, necessitating a need for more intensive moisturising routines, particularly for Asians who have the highest levels of water loss.

As for antioxidants, Asians generally have higher natural levels, providing strong cellular protection against damage and slowing down the ageing process. However, Asian women may face an increased risk of sunspots due to the upregulation of certain genes. Pore size and density also vary across ethnic groups, with Asians having the smallest pores, while Latinas exhibit the highest density and largest pore size. Regardless of ethnicity, pore size tends to increase with age.

Inarguably, when it comes to skincare, one size certainly does not fit all. So AnnKM has curated a guide to help navigate the nuances of skincare for divergent skin colours, tones, and ethnicities.

Cleansing: Regardless of skin colour, a gentle cleanser suited to your skin type is essential. However, individuals with darker skin tones may benefit from products containing ingredients like salicylic acid or glycolic acid to prevent ingrown hairs and combat hyperpigmentation caused by acne.

Moisturization: Hydration is key for all skin types, but individuals with dry or sensitive skin, regardless of colour, should opt for moisturisers free of fragrances and harsh chemicals. For those with oily skin, lightweight, non-comedogenic formulas are preferable to prevent clogged pores.

Sun Protection: Sunscreen is a universal skincare essential, but individuals with lighter skin tones often require a higher SPF to adequately protect against harmful UV rays. Those with darker skin tones should opt for sunscreens that won't leave a white cast, ensuring seamless integration into their skincare routine.

Anti-Aging: While ageing affects everyone, the signs may manifest differently depending on skin colour and tone. Individuals with lighter skin tones are more prone to fine lines and wrinkles caused by sun exposure, necessitating the use of products containing retinoids or peptides. Meanwhile, individuals with darker skin tones may experience signs of ageing, such as loss of elasticity, at a slower rate but may still benefit from incorporating collagen-boosting ingredients like vitamin E or hyaluronic acid into their skincare routine.

Hyperpigmentation: Dark spots and uneven skin tone are common concerns for individuals with darker skin tones. Incorporating products containing ingredients such as niacinamide, vitamin C, or kojic acid can help brighten the complexion and fade hyperpigmentation over time.

Cultural Considerations: It is also crucial to recognize the cultural influences that shape skincare practices. For example, traditional remedies like turmeric masks or shea butter may hold significance for certain ethnicities and can be integrated into modern skincare routines for added benefits.

Many skincare brands overlook the genuine scientific complexities of skin structure and function, favouring a generic approach that fails to cater effectively to individual needs. But here are some of the many businesses that are mindful of these distinct needs of the consumers.

Namesake

Winner of a 2023 Essence Best in Black Beauty Award, the daily moisturizer from Namesake has garnered significant attention and numerous accolades. This fragrance-free, lightweight moisturizer effectively hydrates, plumps, and rejuvenates the skin.

Black Girl Sunscreen

Crafted specifically for melanated skin, Black Girl Sunscreen provides moisturization while combating sun damage, fine lines, and hyperpigmentation, all without leaving behind any white residue.

Melyon

The goal of this skincare brand, headquartered in Sweden, is to promote inclusivity within the traditionally exclusive realm of beauty. They achieve this admirably by offering a wide range of skincare products suitable for all skin types and providing a platform for customers to share their genuine experiences.

Eadem

Utilizing patented Smart Melanin Technology, EADEM is a vegan and cruelty-free skincare brand dedicated to providing gentle and effective care for skin of color. Debuted in 2021 by Marie Kouadio Amouzame and Alice Lin Glover, the line currently features only one product—a dark spot serum suitable for all skin tones—but has already sparked significant interest.

Epi.Logic

Epi.logic, crafted with the precision typical of an oculofacial plastic surgeon, adopts a sophisticated, outcome-driven strategy. Dr. Chaneve Jeanniton introduced the line in 2019, receiving increasing acclaim for her potent serums.grated into modern skincare routines for added benefits.

In the realm of skincare, diversity is not just a buzzword; it's a fundamental aspect where the richness of various ethnicities must be celebrated. By comprehending one's skin tone and texture and opting for products containing suitable ingredients, an individual can craft a skincare regimen that honours their distinct beauty. Ultimately, genuine beauty thrives in the embrace and cultivation of individuality. By tailoring skincare routines to individual concerns and incorporating culturally relevant practices, one can truly promote healthy, radiant skin for all. 

Cover Image Credit: Clarke Sanders @clarkecreates