FRANCE BANS PFAS IN FASHION: WHAT THE END OF FOREVER CHEMICALS MEANS FOR THE INDUSTRY

By: Prachi Khatri

Say goodbye to forever chemicals in your wardrobe—at least if France has anything to say about it. In a groundbreaking move, the country has announced a ban on per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) in textiles, a decision that is about to shake up the global fashion industry.

These invisible chemicals, which are often used to make jackets waterproof, gym leggings sweat-resistant and even baby clothes stain-repellent—are about to be shown the door. The ban on toxic PFAS in textiles is a defining moment in the fashion industry as the concerns over health and environmental safety increase.

Source: Aron Fjell / @addekalk

PFAS, often called "forever chemicals," are a large group of synthetic chemicals that don’t break easily and persist in the environment. Manufacturers have been using PFAS in clothing, shoes, and accessories since the 1940s due to its water and stain resistant properties. It may sound like they are quite useful and doing all the dirty work of resisting oil, grease, water, and heat in clothes, but they do not go away easily or break down and hence damage the environment.

Your perfectly matching athleisure set, sports bra, athletic wear or that adorable raincoat in your kids closet could be hiding a dark secret—they could be exposed to toxic PFAS. PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances) has carbon-fluoride bonds that do not break down naturally and can stick in water, soil, etc. Yes, the stain-proof shirts, bedsheets, and tablecloths are nice, but they come with a price tag that’s too costly for our planet.

France is officially saying “no” to non-essential uses of PFAS in clothing and other consumer goods, with a phased ban starting in 2026. The full rollout is expected by 2030, giving brands some time to clean up their act—quite literally.

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While the European Union is considering a broader restriction through its chemical regulation framework (REACH), France isn’t waiting. It’s the first major fashion market to take such a decisive stand against these persistent pollutants.

As per a 2023 research study conducted by Mamavation, some of the brands that tested positive for PFAS include lululemon, Athleta, Old Navy, and Yogalicious. Before France, Denmark was the first European country to ban PFAS in certain consumer goods.

Under the new law, production, import and export of PFAS in cosmetics, clothing textiles and ski wax will be prohibited starting in January next year. Under France’s depollution plan to eliminate PFAS, companies can face a 100 EUR tax per 100g of PFAS released to the environment.

As per researchers, with PFAS showing up in rainwater, food, and even breast milk, its widespread presence is a serious concern. The forever chemical in synthetic fabric can wreak havoc on hormones, disrupt metabolism, and absorb into skin, especially when you sweat. Polyester garments also shed tiny plastic particles during washing, which can enter water sources and even our food chain. France’s bold move is about protecting people and the planet.

In a world where every single thing is toxic and it can be overwhelming to cut out all toxins, start with doable swaps and switches. Keep learning and researching; it is progress over perfection. The ban from France could ultimately accelerate the transition to PFAS-free alternatives and promote sustainable fashion by pushing brands towards more closed-loop systems and less waste. The waterproof jacket of tomorrow will be just as reliable, but with no toxic baggage.

This isn’t the end of performance fashion but the beginning of a more circular and sustainable fashion industry where cleaner and safer alternatives are adopted due to these restrictions, necessitating brands to develop PFAS-free technologies and treatments for textiles.

Cover Image: lucas wesney / @wesnext