SUSTAINABLE IS SEXY, BUT IS IT AFFORDABLE?

By: Kritika Kukreja

With growing awareness of the ecological and societal consequences of fast fashion all over the world, people are increasingly turning to sustainable fashion alternatives. While great for the environment, how realistic is this for our pockets?

A plethora of ethical brands offer budget-friendly clothing, footwear, and accessories, not all sustainable labels make it to the ‘affordable cut’. Delving into the intricate web of factors that shape the pricing of eco-friendly garments unveils a nuanced process geared towards minimizing environmental impact at every stage of the production.

Credit: Cherie Birkner @cheriebirkner

Certified as a B Corp, utilizing carbon offset shipping, employing plastic-free packaging, incorporating non-toxic dyes, pledging commitment to Earth-first essentials, operating factories powered by solar energy, and supporting of small businesses while adhering to safe and fair labour standards - there are innumerable avenues today for brands to establish themselves as ‘sustainable’. 

Although some may perceive sustainability as the standard rather than a luxury, the associated costs can serve as a deterrent. Consequently, sustainable fashion may be more expensive than regular fashion. Practices that not only champion the preservation of the natural landscape but also demonstrate responsibility throughout the lifecycle of a garment often result in higher price tags.

The question arises: does the true cost reflected in the final amount paid by the customer solely account for organic and natural materials, or are there additional considerations to be taken into account?

Materials and Fabrics

Integral to sustainable fashion is the incorporation of organic and natural materials, indicating that the cultivation and harvesting of these materials entail a more substantial investment of time and resources compared to their synthetic counterparts. In addition to the labour-intensive organic farming practices, the production costs of biodegradable fabrics such as cotton, linen, hemp or silk are also considerably higher. Crafting a wardrobe with plant-based, animal-friendly, hand-woven, and naturally dyed approach implies a meticulous selection of skilled artisans and a level of complexity that surpasses initial impressions. This intricate process necessitates careful consideration at every stage, from material sourcing to the final product. Nevertheless, organic and natural materials demonstrate their environmental friendliness by not releasing microplastic fibres into water or air during disposal.

Credit: Janko Ferlič @itfeelslikefilm

Durability

Another distinguishing factor lies in the longevity of a product. Sustainable fashion labels are held to the expectation of creating durable garments that are: 1) soft and comfortable; 2) at par with modern silhouettes; and 3) can last every mood and season. The goal is to dispel the misconception that sustainable fashion is synonymous with a limited aesthetic. Simultaneously, the objective is to promote the idea of long-lasting connections between consumers and their clothing, ultimately resulting in reduced waste and a diminished environmental impact.

Innovation

Producing lightweight, practical, organic, versatile and fashion-forward clothing demands continual research and innovation. As designers and manufacturers strive to address the multifaceted demands of modern consumers, the process extends beyond conventional practices, igniting a cycle of creativity and advancement. This often contributes to the market price of the finished product. The overall procedure also necessitates multiple rounds of checks to ensure that a specific product is truly eco-friendly and/or recyclable, heightening the accountability of the brands involved.

Certifications

Finally, ethical certifications play a critical role in the realm of sustainable fashion. Certifications such as Fair Trade, Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), Business Social Compliance Initiative (BSCI), and Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP), denote various aspects, ranging from the use of organically sourced materials to chemical-free composition, and from ensuring equitable compensation to providing satisfactory working conditions for the individuals engaged in the production process. Brands that adhere to these ethical standards incur a premium cost in sourcing both fabric and labour. Given the historic exploitation of labour by fast fashion enterprises in developing nations, certifications like Fair trade also ensure that those contributing to the creation of a garment are treated with respect and dignity.

The creation of a fashion collection demands a significant amount of time, especially when incorporating mindful and high-quality materials. However, beyond financial contributions, customers can take actions

There is an urgent need to curtail over-consumption within the fashion industry. According to the Global Fashion Industry Statistics, consumers purchase more than 80 billion new clothing items annually, representing an increase of over 400% compared to consumption levels just two decades ago. 

By embracing a made-to-order philosophy, fashion brands can align their production with actual demand, reducing excess inventory and minimizing the carbon footprint associated with mass production. Other strategies to ensure minimal wastage and repurpose surplus fabrics include a) maintaining a minimalist attire; b) owning pre-loved wardrobe items; and c) embracing rental clothing subscription services.

Credit: Kris Atomic @krisatomic

By comprehending the origins of materials, labour conditions, and specific certifications, customers can make more informed choices, actively contributing to a more sustainable fashion industry. The impact of their spending and non-spending is significant; thus, by supporting brands that align with their values, consumers play a crucial role in fostering a circular economy and shaping a more sustainable future.

In light of the above, we see potential for everyone to create a more sustainable wardrobe by simply starting with what we have, mend pieces we love most and build our wardrobe out slowly and intentionally keeping style and purpose in mind.

Cover Photo Credit: Etienne Girardet @etiennegirardet