HEMP FASHION, NOT JUST A CONVERSATION STARTER

By: Hillary LeBlanc

So what exactly is Hemp fashion? Hemp is a natural, plant-based fiber, which (unlike synthetic textiles) means that the fabric does not contain or shed microplastics. Hemp has a low environmental impact because it is grown with minimal pesticides, synthetic fertilizers and is predominantly maintained with rain water. Essentially when choosing hemp clothing produced by an ethical brand, you are reducing the environmental footprint of your wardrobe.

Fourth-generation seamstress Samantha Jean Moore is a full-time fabric collage artist and multimedia producer. Using found objects, vintage fabric, discarded books, broken jewelry, and other reclaimed materials, she creates transformational designs that breathe new life and meaning into everyday experiences. Moore is also the founder of an Eco-fashion brand, Modern Country Couture that has used Hemp fabrics for various pieces.

Modern Country Couture has been unintentionally sustainable mainly because Moore experienced living lean financially since a young age, which meant she learned to be creative and inventive. Kentucky, where Moore calls home, is one of the antique capitals of the world. Artists repurposing items isn’t uncommon for her area. Moore shares, “I had to be really resourceful and use what I had at my disposal. I got really comfortable using vintage and recycled materials because that’s what I had access to. Thrifting was like my superpower because I learned a long time ago how to make the best of something old and tired. I didn’t start sewing on a machine until I was 24, but once I did, it just made sense to use old things, broken and found objects, string them together and make really cool unique stuff. And for the first time, people were really drawn to what I was doing”. Reflecting back, she feels her sustainability started our of necessity but it seems she was ahead of the curve and a trendsetter!

Moore started experimenting with Hemp in 2019. She is a member of the Lexington Fashion Collaborative, an organization that hosts the “Future of Fashion” show each year, and although they had planned an inaugural “Sarah Jane Estes Sustainable Fashion Competition”, named after one of the founders, they had to postpone due to COVID. The theme was centred around sustainable textiles with Hemp as the main focus. Designers were required to incorporate Hemp into their designs, one ready-to-wear and one couture garment per designer. In October 2022, the Collaborative set out for their competition again. Though Moore had originally conceptualized pieces for the Kentucky Derby incorporating Hemp, she decided to create an entirely new collection using only undyed Hemp t-shirts which were raw and aesthetically “post-apocalyptic”. Moore tells us, “the ready-to-wear piece is something fit for Burning Man or a bohemian retreat: a loose-fitting jumpsuit with provocative cutouts and a long flowing cape. The couture garment was a contemporary nod to Demeter, Goddess of the field, complete with a set of wings made from real dried hemp stalks grown and harvested at Ashland, The Henry Clay Estate in Lexington. Together, the two looks invoked the spirit of feminine rage, ancient warriors, sensuality, revenge, renewal, and growth. It was a powerful moment and the judges awarded me 1st place. You can see more photos in the October Issue of Sophisticated Living Magazine”.

Hemp fabric is hard to find in Kentucky, Moore tells us, but she has found collaborators such as Joanne Couch of Handmade Hope Rags who has been using Hemp fabric in her designs for years. “She often finds deadstock products and fabrics to incorporate into her sustainable garments, jewellery and home goods” says Moore. Kentucky has a rich history of cultivating Hemp for industrial uses. Moore shares, “At one point, Kentucky was the largest producer of Hemp rope for the early American shipping industry, but racist legislation (as well as lobbying interests catering to the lumber industry) made all cannabis products illegal, including Hemp. It is still difficult to grow Hemp in most states. The Kentucky Farm bill was only passed a couple of years ago allowing the production of industrial Hemp to licensed growers”. Moore adds that Hemp is a contentious issue among political groups, though the problem seems to be more about “controlling and taxing the production of Hemp and Cannabis products”. Moore feels that political leaders are more focused on profits than the well-being of the population. Moore explains “we have a major opioid crisis in Kentucky, and political leaders are only just starting to consider the benefits of medical marijuana. It's something that we are fighting for, both for industrial and medical purposes. The Sarah Jane Estes Sustainable Fashion Competition is just one way that Kentuckians are working to normalize the production and use of Hemp”. 

Moore also designs costumes for local theatre productions and has designed for nine plays, one feature film, two short films, and two music videos. Though she always finds ways to incorporate vintage and recycled materials she rarely uses Hemp for these projects.  Hemp fabric is difficult to come by and the vast majority is still only produced overseas due to US laws so Moore is currently unable to incorporate these fabrics in her costume design but hopes to eventually explore this option if Hemp becomes more accessible.

Moore is currently focusing on couture design and is creating a gown for KMAC Couture, a world class fashion exhibition and fundraiser hosted each April by the Kentucky Museum of Art & Craft in Louisville. This year’s theme is “One for the Books” so her piece is based on the romantic tragedy of Frankenstein. “I’m using a 1970’s chartreuse velvet frock, a lime green sari that was gifted to me by a dear friend, a black and blue blazer, a beaded mesh vest and a variety of other thrifted elements to bring my Frankenstein to life in shades of green”.

Moore hopes to attract clients who desire something truly special for their most important occasions and also appreciate reducing their environmental footprint. As for Hemp fashion, she will continue to design and create pieces with all sorts of materials including Hemp so long as it allows her to to transform the disposable to the indispensable.