TURNING PINEAPPLE FIBER INTO RUNWAY-READY FASHION: MEET MAISON MÉTISSE
By: Zibah Olabode
Sustainable clothing used to be associated with unexciting, subpar garments, however more and more brands are blending sustainability with their fundamental principles of heritage, culture, aesthetics and quality. With more focus on protecting the planet, designers are also getting more creative discovering natural resources that can be used in the process of creating fabrics that have less negative impact on the environment.
Bamboo fabrics entered the commercial market in the early 2000’s setting new benchmarks and creating awareness of the environmental harm more common fabrics such as cotton causes. Bamboo generally does not require the use of chemical pesticides or fertilizers and requires very little water to create garments in comparison to cotton. The soft fabric it creates in addition to the reduction of environmental impact has led to the experimentation with other natural resources from plants, fruits and vegetables by fashion designers around the world.
One brand that has been raising eyebrows with their use of pineapple fiber is Maison Métisse, creating runway-ready fashion in the Philippines.
As a brand, Maison Métisse has impressively merged its heritage with a focus on sustainability to produce exceptional creations.
The creative force behind Maison Métisse, is Adrienne Charuel, a versatile artist who started her fashion career by studying fashion design at Esmod in Paris before spending a year and a half in New York City. There, she found an entry-level workshop where she was first introduced to the Saori style of Japanese cloth crafting. This led her to explore and experiment with other aspects of sustainable craftsmanship—from natural hand-dyeing with natural flora to sacred embroidery, Charuel marries a love for local fabrics and art forms discovered in other parts of the world. Her pieces are distinctly handcrafted in the Philippines and reflect her diverse exposure.
The name Maison Métisse is inspired by the french term Métisse, which means woman of mixed descent, not necessarily by blood, but by her life and the experiences that shape her. The concept of Métisse, is reflected in Charuel’s creative process. She combines saori weaving techniques, Ai-Zome (traditional hand dyeing), Shibori (Japanese knotted indigo) and hand-embroidered macramé into garments that embody heritage and class.
Every handcrafted and ethical creation is drawn from a collection of stories, passion, and heritage. Charuel’s creations are made to remind fashion enthusiasts about the incredible ability of the human soul and hands when left to create without the involvement of modern-day technology.
In an effort to achieve the brand’s goal of supporting ethical fashion, they not only use sustainable methods and resources, but they also collaborate with local communities to revive lost traditions and improve their quality of life.
“At Maison Métisse, we take care of Mother Earth in the way that we know best, consciously aiming to reduce waste and develop eco-friendly means of producing our creations. We care about Mother Earth and do our best to reduce waste and harm”. Says Charuel.
Charuel’s commitment to sustainability is evident in her design process. She and her team use only natural dyes and materials, eschewing paper and plastic for packaging. The studio also works with nearby restaurants to collect food scraps for creating natural dyes, aiming to reduce food waste while simultaneously creating product from natural resources.
Maison Métisse recycles and upcycle all possible items, utilizing seed paper for creating hang tags and business cards. They carefully consider the impact of their waste on others and regularly visit their local communities every 1–2 months to build close relationships and ensure a good working environment. Likewise, they know how much time is needed to make handmade items, so the focus is only on small batches.
Maison Métisse partners with local communities to ensure all workers are honoured for their skills. This is to ensure that practicing fair trade is about empowerment, not charity.
Their workers set their own prices for their fees and services and are compensated fairly for sharing their cultural history and traditions. Maison Métisse ensures that they offer recognition to the local communities they collaborate with.
Some of their collaborations include the Philippine Itneg Tribe from the mountains of Abra and two other communities, La Paz Weavers, and DAWN (Development Action for Women Network) community. DAWN is a non-government, non-profit organization established in 1996 to assist distressed women migrants from Japan, as well as their Japanese-Filipino children, in the promotion and protection of their rights and welfare.
Maison Métisse is also noted for its in-house atelier, which employs Metro Manila weavers. Some employees, including moms, weave as a source of income to help their children pay for college.
A totally handwoven piece from the Maison Métisse catalogue might take up to eight days to create, using Philippine fibers and hand dyeing.
One of their creations, the Marahuyo caftan, is coloured with Talisay leaves, giving it a natural green finish, while their Marine dress is dyed with real Philippine coconuts, giving it an ancient rose hue. According to Charuel, what she loves the most about this collection is the zero waste.
The creation of garments that are as meticulous and complex as the creations of Maison Métisse does not come without its own unique set of challenges, one of which is maintaining the reverence and respect of culture and heritage.
Another challenge is that the local tribes she partners with usually have electricity problems, which affects the speed of their work. The studio has donated solar lamps to the workers so that they can have electricity.
Charuel believes that it is important to be transparent about their creative process, because it allows people to trace the origins of the materials and colours, learn about them, and come to know the communities they work with. This is why she is a dedicated advocate for low-impact fashion and traditional handicrafts through exhibitions such as Heritage in Bloom, Philippines.
Her masterful work continues to serve as an inspiration to designers in the Philippines and other parts of the world, as more designers are creating fashionable masterpieces while mindfully nurturing the earth.