HOW NEW YORK FASHION WEEK CELEBRATED BLACKNESS THIS FEBRUARY
By: Hillary LeBlanc
Every Spring Summer New York Fashion Week season takes place in February amid Black History Month. This year, with President Trump rolling back Diversity, Equity and Inclusion as well as ending identity themed holidays, Black History Month feels like a mix of celebration, reflection and frustration. Despite the political climate, many designers have used NYFW as an opportunity to highlight the importance of representation, cultural diversity, and social justice.
Black Fashion Show Moments
Christopher John Rogers celebrated his Blackness through a rainbow of colors at his show which he defined as a “celebration of our roots” on his Instagram. He highlighted that this collection comes at a time when identities are being challenged and that the pursuit of happiness feels complex. His collection embodies the spirit of defiance, but Rogers also has highlighted the use of American fabrics like cotton to really show African-American identity as part of the tapestry. Garments had eccentric shapes, patterns, use of corsetry and were all extremely unique.
Sergio Hudson’s show exuded Black excellence. The primarily diverse cast of models donned elegant dresses, suits, tweed sets, sequins and furs. The collection entitled, “The Good Life” showed exactly what diverse communities look like while dressing luxe.
Style expert Jenee Naylor attended both Christopher John Rogers’ show and Sergio Hudson. She expressed that “as a Black woman, championing Black art, expression and fashion is important. I absolutely feel as if shows, such as Christopher John Rogers and Sergio Hudson, serve as a means of black celebration. It's no secret that the fashion industry can be quite exclusive and discriminatory. That's why the highlight of my NYFW experience tends to be attending these shows. They continuously embody a unique creative lens, while also showcasing quality craftsmanship and empowering black culture.” She adds that the overlap of New York Fashion Week and Black History Month are a small win despite the burden of dealing with prejudices from the fashion industry.
A.Potts presented at New York Men’s Day a collection inspired by Black Panthers and spotted leopards while also showing that his art is part of the revolution. A. Potts’ show put a spotlight on these trying times demanding that we love one another. While some looks were minimalistic, others were modern, with patterns boldly emphasizing exotic animal prints and jewellery pulling from tribal themes.
Joseph McRae’s collection at New York Men’s Day was full of exaggerated shoulders and shapes, channeling a reborn 90’s era. Colors include beige, neon green, deep green, brown and sea-green, which take a nod from his inspiration of nature. Though the looks may channel greenery, the shapes and pieces exude confidence. The collection is about taking up space unapologetically. It was about stepping forward, owning your presence and making the world adjust to your brilliance. Each piece in this collection embodied confidence and power, a reminder that we are meant to stand tall, exist boldly and be seen. This collection was a statement of purpose.
Chuks Collins bridged the gap between African and Western fashion in a sustainable approach. The Nigerian-British designer has a passion for creating earth friendly solutions that don’t compromise on style. Collins’ pieces used earth tones, bead work, nature-inspired prints. Prints and earrings were reminiscent of garments found in Nigeria and Africa where he spent time in his youth.
Agobly highlighted Black, queer and immigrant narratives choosing to focus on their cultural contributions through a global-focused lens. The brand explored race, gender and culture outside of the traditional western landscape. With a firm approach and aesthetic that aims to break down gender binaries, their designs incorporated Black history and artisan traditions into a modern era, the future of fashion. Agbobly has developed a deep heritage of vibrant colors, artisanal materiality and visionary silhouettes inspired by Jacques Agolby’s experiences as an indigenous, non-binary immigrant. The Togolese identity and heritage is fundamental to the brand’s celebration of multiplicities within Black culture through fashion. Agbobly is rooted in uplifting communities through storytelling and the centering of West African hand craft, which is infused within our custom made-to-order design approach. This model has allowed products to be made in-house on a hand-operated knitting machine using natural fibers that are biodegradable and eco-friendly. This years presentation showed suiting, cargos, knitwear all in neon tones, florals and patterns celebrating identity and creativity.
Community Gatherings
This year, New York Fashion Week had several pop-ups with Black designers and creatives at their hub. Black designers Bruce Glen had a pop-up shop along side a meet and greet. During this time they also held their first ‘Joy-Over’ - a joy inspired Makeover for two Black moms. Simultaneously, their pop-up proceeds supported those impacted by the LA fires.
Supermodel Chanel Iman also held a pop-up and personal appearance for her new home good brand Chasa. Fans were able to meet the model who helped increase diversity and increase visibility for Black models on runways globally.
Media company MEFeater showcased seven Black female designers for their Galentine’s celebration including Futura by Dionne, R MA Apparel, Devon Milan, Helena Graham, Smooth Child, Duppy New York and Starfish Market. With Black performers, and sponsored by Black beauty brand Mielle, the MEFeater Galentine’s show was not to miss for the Black female fashion community.
Showrooms
As with previous years, both the Black in Fashion Council, including 11 Black designers - 35 being shown at the Folklore Showroom, ensure Black brands were also profiting during New York Fashion Week.
While New York Fashion Week isn’t branded as such, this year it was proven to be a celebration of identities. The Black community was one of the most celebrated during NYFW this year. From shows and opportunities that have helped grow the Black dollar and community gatherings, it could be argued that New York Fashion Week is one of the biggest global Black History Month events on the calendar!